Getting an áo dài made in Hội An: fabric, fittings and how long it takes

The áo dài is a long silk tunic, split at the sides and worn over loose trousers. Women wear it for Tết, weddings and graduations, many high-school girls wear a white one to class, and men put one on for the big occasions. Hội An, with a tailor on almost every street, is the best place in the country to have one made.

How it works

1. Choose the fabric at the cloth market (chợ vải) or in the shop. Silk (lụa) is the classic; chiffon and blends are lighter and cheaper.
2. Get measured. An áo dài fits close, so expect a lot of measurements: shoulders, bust, waist, the length of your arms and back.
3. First fitting, usually the next day. This is where it becomes yours.
4. Adjustments. Small changes take hours, not days. Many tailors will bring the finished piece to your hotel.

Order on your first or second day in Hội An, so there is time for a second fitting. A simple áo dài can be ready in 24 hours; just don’t leave it to your last afternoon.

What to check at the fitting

• The collar sits flat and doesn’t pinch.
• You can lift your arms and sit down comfortably.
• The side slits start at the waist and the front and back panels hang straight.
• The trousers are long enough to brush the floor in the shoes you will wear.
• The seams inside are finished, not fraying.

Wearing it in the old town

• Go early: before nine the light is soft and the streets are empty.
• The yellow houses are people’s homes and shops. Ask before you step inside for a photo.
• Walk in flat shoes and change for the photos.

Do it with us

Our Áo Dài Fitting & Photo Walk starts at the cloth market: you choose the silk, get measured by a tailor, then walk the old town in your áo dài with a local photographer, before the crowds.