How to pick a good street food stall in Việt Nam

The best food in Việt Nam is cooked on the pavement by someone who has made the same dish for twenty years. Here is how to find that person, and how to enjoy it without spending the next day in your hotel.

Eight signs of a good stall

1. It’s full of locals. Busy means the food doesn’t sit around. A crowd of office workers at 7 a.m. is the best review there is.
2. It sells one thing. The sign names one dish. That is a specialist, not a menu.
3. It’s cooked hot in front of you. Broth at a rolling simmer, meat on the grill, a wok on a fierce flame.
4. The hour fits the dish. Phở in the morning, bún chả at lunch, snails and beer in the evening. A breakfast dish at 9 p.m. has been waiting all day.
5. The kitchen is tidy, even if the floor isn’t. Tissues and peanut shells underfoot are normal. Look at the chopping board and the cook’s hands instead.
6. The price is on the wall. If it isn’t, ask before you eat: “Bao nhiêu tiền?”
7. The stools are low and the turnover is fast. Nobody lingers at the good ones; people eat and go.
8. You can smell it from the corner. Trust your nose.

Ice, herbs and chilli

• Ice. In the cities most ice comes from factories: the tubes with a hole through the middle. If you are unsure, say “không đá” (no ice).
• Herbs. Raw herbs and greens are half the meal. If your stomach is new to Việt Nam, start with a little.
• Chilli. It usually sits on the table for you to add. Taste first; ask for “không cay” if it comes already hot.

Small things that help

• Carry small notes: 10,000, 20,000 and 50,000₫. Big notes at a stall are a nuisance.
• Keep tissues or wet wipes in your pocket.
• Sit low, lean forward, and keep your bag on your lap.

Or let a local choose

Every lowstool outing is hosted by locals who know these stalls. They pick the stall, order in Vietnamese and sit down with you.